Perched dramatically on the cliffs above Cruden Bay in Aberdeenshire, the ruin of Slains Castle immediately captures the imagination.  Its intricate architectural details combine with its fascinating history; its towering spires and arched windows showcase the craftsmanship of a bygone era; its position invites you to take in the ever changing panoramic views of the North Sea’s sweeping coastal scenery.

This once thriving symbol of power and prestige’s now crumbling walls have an enchanting allure that captivates everyone who visits here.  Stepping inside this magnificent ruin brings an appreciation of a castle with a noble past; we wondered what secrets its bricks could tell.

Of course, this isn’t the original Slains Castle. The first, known as Old Slains Castle, was built in the 1200s as a fortress by the Earl of Errol approximately 6 miles from here near Collieston.  However, in 1594, the Earl of Errol sided with the Earl of Huntly and backed a plot against King James VI, who responded by blowing up Old Slains Castle.  The Earl of Errol went into exile but made his peace with King James by renouncing his faith when he returned in 1597.  There is not much left of Old Slains Castle; just a small piece of one wall.

This is officially known as New Slains Castle and it has been reconstructed many times since it was first built in 1597 by Sir William Hay, the Earl of Erroll, but it has become the victim of various misfortunes over time and its dramatic location has led, inevitably, to erosion by the sea.

It was originally a tower house which was extended and ranges of buildings, including stables, were added around a courtyard.  There were also magnificent gardens.  In 1664, the castle was once again expanded and extensively altered and a corridor was built across the courtyard. The entrance was renewed in 1707; a gallery corridor was also built.  In the 1820s and 1830s, the Aberdeen Architect, John Smith was commissioned to remodel the castle again and the castle was given a granite facing.  In 1863 further wings were added. The gardens were extensively re laid in the 1890s.

The Errolls were an influential family in the area and prospered further when the 18^th Earl, William Hay, married Lady Elizabeth FitzClarence, the daughter of King William IV. But the Hays fell on hard times and in 1913, after being in the same family for 300 years, the castle and its contents were sold to Sir John Ellerman.  However, he allowed it to fall into disrepair and gave up the castle in 1925 after which the roof was removed to avoid paying taxes.

From its first construction in 1597 through all its alterations, New Slains Castle is an excellent example of a multi phase design, reflecting the changing needs and fashions of castle and country house design over the 300 years it was lived in, including the remains of a dutch-style gable, crenellations and architectural styles such as Romanesque and Tudor.

The exterior walls of the castle were built using pink granite rubble.  The main entrance was via a large archway on the first floor which is flanked by two three storey round towers and reached by a sweeping driveway.  The interior is built with red brick, which was unusual for the time.  The south range comprises four two storey ranges, set around a square courtyard with a large, 6 storey tower in the south corner.  This section contained the principal rooms as well as servants quarters. There is a concentric gallery in the courtyard which has a curious octagonal two-storey tower in its centre.  There are another two towers in the east and west corners.

On the north end is the former stable yard, its entrance is also flanked by a pair of two storey round towers.  The blacksmith and the carpenter’s workshops, harness room, coach house and slaughter houses were sited here too.

The kitchen, pantries, scullery, brewhouse, coal pits and privy provided a linked service section from the stable yard to the main house.

It’s easy to see the different architectural features relating the story of this castle’s many transformations.  It’s also evident that there is a lower floor which is now lost to time; claimed by sand and soil blown in on the winds.  There is what was probably a cellar which is barely accessible, but if you’re brave enough you can scramble down into it and see the large stone storage bins all the way around the walls. As you wander around its seemingly endless corridors, you can’t help but feel the opulent lifestyle those who lived here would have had in this building of brick built intersecting corridors wrapped around interestingly shaped rooms and towers.  However, there is a strange stillness to the site.  Nature is gradually reclaiming it, carpeting the interior with nettles. 

There is a fascinating blend of folklore and fact to this castle and many locals claim to have heard the eerie whispers of trapped souls and seen spectral figures gliding around.  It’s no wonder that when Bram Stoker visited in 1893, he used it as inspiration for his story of Dracula.  Bram was the manager of the Lyceum Theatre in London when he came here.  He stayed in Cruden Bay at the Kilmarnock Arms to get away from the hustle and bustle of London life; he shut himself off from his family and the polite constraints of Victorian society to bring his undead protagonist to life.  It’s thought he might have visited the castle which wasn’t a ruin at the time and been beguiled by the octagonal room at its centre.  It’s dramatic location on the cliffs overlooking the sea with the aptly named Skares rock below caught his imagination inspiring him to create his famous character.  Whilst we didn’t feel spooked or scared, we were nonetheless completely enchanted and beguiled by this formidable yet serene place.